Tigers, Birdies And Stirfries

Of all the long-haul golf destinations Thailand sparks the imagination like no other. Mark Alexander explores two of the country’s premier golfing cities.

There are some countries that fire my imagination with tales of high adventure and exotic customs. These are the destinations that make me want to pack my bags and set off with little more than a wistful notion of what to expect. With my metaphorical explorer’s hat set firmly at a jaunty angle, I set off for one such adventure to Thailand where the promise of tropical wildlife, spicy food and of course golf, had set my wanderlust ablaze.

The land of Smiles, as Thailand is known, is a varied and glamorous land about the size of Spain, yet with a population of 65million. It is a country that has seized upon its reputation for hospitality with tourism generating roughly US$16 billion annually.  With spectacular islands, affordable living costs and a reputation for soothing massage, it’s easy to see why Thailand has become a welcome stop on the world travellers’ route.

But Thailand is more than just rickshaws and cheap nights out. My first stop was the bustling northern outpost of Chiang Mai - Thailand’s second city and self-proclaimed Rose of the North. This cultural centre would be my base from which to explore the city’s hinterland and numerous golf courses.

PACE OF LIFE. The first thing I noticed about Chiang Mai was the constant buzz of activity day and night. Every possible space was occupied by some sort of commercial enterprise be it a pop-up shop selling umbrellas or a motorised cart flogging cans of fizzy drinks. As strange as it sounds, all this sits happily alongside imposing monasteries and golden temples creating a strange mix of commerce and religion.

Wonderfully, my city centre digs were the antithesis of this hubbub. Rachamankha is a hotel awash with calmness and yet is within an easy stroll of Chiang Mai’s largest temple Wat Phra Singh. The 24-room retreat has been carefully laid out to exclude the surrounding city through a series of courtyards and corridors and adorned with authentic oriental artefacts that gradually leave the hubbub of the city behind.  All of which would come in handy after a round at one of the region’s many championship courses which, according to my experienced guide from Coco Golf, were a testing lot. Simon Rolstone’s in-depth knowledge of Thai golf would prove invaluable during my trip and I would urge you to visit the company’s website where a FAQ section will provide golden nuggets of information about the best of golf in Thailand.

NORTHERN SOUL. A good example is the Alpine Golf Resort designed by American architect Ron Garl in 1993. The course has seen a number of changes since it first opened but remains immaculately presented and idyllically located in the San Kampaeng forest. With water coming into play on a number of holes and a mountainous backdrop to boot, this is an exciting course to play and the perfect venue for the Chiangmai Golf Classic which last year attracted major winners Ernie Els and YE Yang.

Nearby Chaing Mai Highlands is equally impressive with deep and penalizing bunkers as well as great views to distract you from the job in hand. It’s all in keeping with the successful design ethos of Schmidt-Curley who penned the 18-hole layout in 2005. Perhaps tellingly, the course was unveiled in December during a month that many believe is the most conducive to golf (the ‘cool’ season which stretches from November to February and can see daily temperatures settle at a pleasant 28⁰C rather than punishing high 30s during the hot season).

The course itself is fun to play, with large undulating greens and generous run-off areas ensuring I had a shot even when I didn’t make the dance floor.  Since three-tiered greens are not uncommon here, my caddy justified her fee with a number of well-judged, if initially implausible, reads. Take it from me, these talented ladies know what they’re talking about.

FLOWERS AND BRIDGES. While Alpine and Highlands are beautifully presented tests of golf they don’t match Chiang Mai Green Valley for its sense of place. With the flaming red flowers of the Peacock-Tail tree, ornate bridges and an abundance of vibrant flora adding a flash of colour, this is a course with bags of personality. Tiered fairways and large greens make it appear longer than its 7,202 yards and if the conditioning had been better, Green Valley would have got my golfing vote.

In the end, golf in the north of Thailand was a pleasant surprise not simply because of the unquestionable talents of the local caddies (who also help maintain the courses in between rounds) but for the quality of golf on offer. Each course I played followed a clever design and was set in incredible surroundings. As golfing destinations go, Chiang Mai has a lot going for it.

CULTURAL CENTRE.  Away from the pursuit of birdies, it is easy to find other regional distractions to tease your baht (the local currency).  As I found out, shopping is a national pastime with all-night markets offering an incredible array of local crafts, food stuffs and fantastic art.  Add to that live music - especially in the night bazaar - and affordable meals that rarely go above £10 per head and you have the ideal place for some post-round merriment.

As well as being an ideal golfing destination Chiang Mai is also the centre of Buddhism in northern Thailand.  As a result, I found it easy to wander between the historic and the modern especially within the moat-encircled city centre.

Of course, religion and commerce are only part of what’s on offer.  Half an hour north of Chiang Mai I had been told there was one of the country’s most contentious animal parks.  Tigers are the largest of the big cats and one of the most endangered with as little as 3,200 living in the wild, so you can imagine my surprise when I walked into the Tiger Kingdom to see not one, but four of them being stroked by paying guests.

In a strange case of ecological opportunism the trainers at Tiger Kingdom hand raise their cubs to provide tourists with face-to-face encounters with the king of the cats. The park maintains its animals are not drugged and of the 14 animals I saw, all responded affectionately to their trainers. Despite the thrill of seeing these majestic animals close up, in truth, I felt uneasy with the set-up and my visit raised more questions than answers.

BRIGHT LIGHTS. Leaving behind the tigers and the night markets of Chiang Mai I travelled south to Pattaya, a popular beach resort 150 km southeast of Bangkok. For the uninitiated, Pattaya is best described as an adult playground, although Lonely Planet suggests its streets of go-go clubs and massage parlours make Bangkok’s red-light districts look “small and provincial” by comparison.

Located on a wide crescent-shaped bay, Pattaya was one of the original Thai beach resorts with many attributing the origins of its meteoric rise to US soldiers seeking R&R during the Vietnam War. These days, the place attracts partygoers from every corner of the globe who inevitably take a stroll down Walking Street.

I was no different and my leisurely amble from Beach Road to Bali Hai Pier provided me with an eyeful of exotic and colourful sights. This is the epicentre of Pattaya with pubs and strip joints neighbouring nightclubs like Candy Shop and Lucifer. At the other end of town, tourists gravitate to the transvestite extravaganza of Tiffany’s Show.

TEE TIME. The upshot of all this tourism is that Pattaya has some cracking golf courses. For me, the pick of the bunch is Laem Chabang International Country Club and in particular, the nine holes of the Mountain course. Designed by Jack Nicklaus, this upland track was everything I could have hoped for with luscious foliage bordering the fairways and defining each hole. From the elevated tees, everything was set out in front of me making for some epic tee shots and memorable hole outs.

For out-and-out grandeur however, you could do far worse than Siam Country Club which boasts 63 holes over three courses, the latest of which opened in May. The Waterside Course may be the baby of the Siam trio but it is deceptively tough with little protection from the prevailing breeze. In the end it was down to my putting to save the day or did those relatively sedate greens possibly have something to do with it?

There is no such respite on the 27-hole Plantation course which finishes up on a curious triple green. The panoramic views that surround the course gave me the impression I was in for an easy round but any hopes were dashed by the imposing 7^th hole. With its 26 bunkers and two-tier fairway this 538-yard beast plays uphill and often into a prevailing breeze. My advice is to approach it as you would an inexpensive bottle of Champagne – carefully.

WONDERFUL MIX. If Plantation is a lively bottle of fizz, Siam’s Old Course is a vintage Cabernet Sauvignon which has aged well over its 43 years. Home to the Honda LPGA tour event this course oozes class with a wonderful mix of tempting par threes and demanding par fives. But be warned, this place can get busy.

There are others to choose from including the 27-hole Khao Kheow Country Club designed by Pete Dye which includes a ubiquitous island green and the two 18-hole courses at Burapha Golf Club. All in all, I felt there was a great selection of courses in this region of Thailand with many being penned by some of the world’s foremost designers.

SAFE HAVEN. Back in Pattaya, booking into one of the city’s growing number of up market resorts such as the Woodlands Suites, provided me with a safe haven from the buzzing neon and booming music. Like the Rachamankha in Chiang Mai, Woodlands is a sanctuary of peace where I could easily nip back and recharge my batteries.

Another option was to follow Simon’s advice and drive south on the Sukhumvit Road towards Ban Saray Bay and a quiet, wooden pier. On it I found Ruantalay, an unpretentious seafood restaurant with jaw-dropping sunsets and a menu that barely did the food justice. Here, the cuisine and the views do the talking.

Thai food was one of the reasons I wanted to visit Thailand and in a wonderful moment when hope met reality, the country’s chefs lived up to their billing. From flavoursome green curries and stir fries to rice-soup breakfasts and fresh seafood, Thailand’s culinary riches exceeded my expectations. As I found out, so did the golf.