New York Food - A Slice of the Big Apple

Posted: Wed 25th November 2015
By: Dena Roché

In Italy you go for the pasta. In Germany it’s the schnitzel and in Switzerland it’s the fondue. But when you head to the U.S. and its most cosmopolitan city of New York, it’s hard to put your finger on the quintessential, must-have dish. Of course, you want to experience American cuisine, but what the heck is American cuisine these days?

When it comes to American eats it starts with burgers and ends with molecular gastronomy, with so much in between. On a recent trip to the city, I explored what’s hot in American food at the moment, so bring your appetite and join me for a whirlwind tour of some of the hottest tables in town.

BRUNCH MUNCH. New Yorkers love their brunch. On Saturday and Sunday you’ll see them spilling out of cafés all across the city. From Michelin-starred ABC Kitchen, to Friend of a Farmer, where you'd better get there before 11 am to avoid standing in line, savoury and sweet breakfast foods are hot.    While Manhattan is always a food hub, the trendiest part of town for foodies is Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Known for its hipsters, the area has morphed into a culinary powerhouse and I’m getting my brunch on at the newly Michelin star anointed Delaware & Hudson. Open for less than a year, this 38-seat eatery is playing with the big boys.    "No one was more surprised than me when I got the call about the star,” said chef/owner Patti Jackson. “I still want to cry tears of joy thinking about it.”    Though Jackson has over 30 years in the kitchen, Delaware & Hudson is her first solo venture. Clearly, she’s off to a good start.    Named for the railroad company her grandfather worked for, Jackson is focused on Mid-Atlantic American food, from Long Island oysters to New Jersey asparagus. The brunch menu definitely pays homage to that area of the country with dishes like house-smoked Pennsylvania trout, Baltimore crab cakes and an Amish-style chicken pot-pie that New York Magazine called this year’s best comfort food in the city.     Her recipes also include regional specialties like Pennsylvania Dutch Scrapple, a mixture of pork scraps combined with flour and spices and pan-fried.    I opt for the lox, eggs and onions that arrive looking like giant frittata topped with spring greens Jackson picked up from the local farmers market that morning. The dish is so filling it could have counted as breakfast, lunch and dinner, but alas, a journalist’s work is never done and we have plans for the night.

PIZZA PERFECTION. If brunch is the trend of the moment, New York pizza is the tradition that is still as fresh today as it was back when Gennaro Lombardi started America’s first pizzeria in the Little Italy part of town in 1905.    Italian immigrants brought this tasty treat to the States and traditional New York-style pizza is thin crusted, light on tomato sauce and sold by the slice. Locals fold it to make it easy to eat on the go.     What makes the pizza special is the mineral content of the New York water and high-gluten flour (not good for someone like me who is supposed to avoid gluten!) . There are over 400 restaurants in the city where you can get this slice of heaven, some of the best being Joe’s Pizza, Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano and Di Fara Pizza.    While you can get a traditional slice almost anywhere, the year-old Marta restaurant, owned by Danny Meyer and Nick Anderer and located in the kitschy Martha Washington boutique hotel, elevates and evolves the New York pizza. The pizza crust is thinner and crispier than a typical New York slice and the toppings a bit more upper crust. There is the patate alla carbonara topped with potatoes, guanciale, black pepper, pecorino and egg or the Fiore di Zucca with squash blossoms, mozzarella and anchovies. I decide gluten be damned and pick the funghi topped with Fontana, mozzarella, hen-of-the-woods, chanterelles, red onion and thyme.    Try and save some room to savour some unique gelati like the brandy beer cherry I tried, or the Arnold Palmer sorbetti.

PROGRESSIVE AMERICAN. The Knickerbocker Hotel first opened in 1906 and was the hotel until prohibition closed its doors in 1921. For 94 years it was an office building until it reopened this year. It’s a classic reinvented, so the choice of Charlie Palmer, a Michelin-starred chef known for putting sophisticated spins on American favourites, as its restaurant name makes perfect sense.    “Cooking in the U.S. has changed dramatically since The Knickerbocker Hotel opened at the dawn of Manhattan’s Golden Era. While drawing inspiration from the history of The Knickerbocker Hotel, fused with the melting-pot culture of New York, we developed unique menus that cater to today’s discerning palates,” said Charlie Palmer. “The various dining establishments will offer hotel guests and New York locals a contemporary take on classic American cocktails and dishes, complemented by my progressive American cooking style.”    I’m there to check out the signature restaurant: Charlie Palmer at the Knick. The décor is contemporary and upscale, but with a comfortable vibe. This is definitely a common theme dining out in the U.S.; no matter how gourmet a restaurant is, it’s not stuffy or formal. As Jackson said to me, “Who wants to go out and be uncomfortable?”    Proof of the casual friendliness is that my namesake waitress Dina, talks to me throughout the meal (I’m dining solo) about theatre, dating, writing and more. By the end of the meal, we even exchange cards.    One of the most popular items on the menu is Palmer’s take on fried chicken. This small plate of chicken seasoned with chipotle and paprika is a far cry from KFC! Being a pescatarian, I opt for the grilled octopus. This complex dish weaves flavours of chimichurri, tomatoes and popcorn purée to create singular bites of squidlike perfection. For my main, I remain in the ocean with jumbo sea scallops cooked to perfection in a miso glaze and accented with corn relish.    Dessert is liquid at St. Cloud, the 7,500 square foot rooftop bar offering an unobstructed view of the famous ball in Times Square and jaw-dropping views of Manhattan at large. Enjoy a craft cocktail or après dinner drink and savour the view.

BAGELS AND PIZZA. When you’re out and about exploring the city and getting hungry, it’s the perfect time to try out some  quintessential New York eats.    Bagels and New York are synonymous and there is no doubt that the best bagels in the country are from here. Perhaps it’s the same water that makes the pizza so good, but New York bagels have a malty sweetness and just the right amount of crust. And when they’re fresh out of the oven, the result is nirvana. Try Ess-a-Bagel or Brooklyn’s Bagel Hole for some of the best.    A great lunch treat for the carnivores is a classic New York deli. What they lack in atmosphere they make up for in sandwiches piled high with corned beef or pastrami. Katz’s Delicatessen, made famous in When Harry Met Sally, or the cash-only Carnegie Deli are tops in the city.     If you have a sweet tooth like me, Milk Bar is a must try. It’s part of the Momofuku empire started by David Chang, a restaurateur with James Beard awards and Michelin stars to his credit, in collaboration with Christina Tosi, this year’s James Beard best pastry chef .    Several of the treats have developed a cult-like following, including the cereal milk ice cream I order. It literally tastes like the milk leftover in your cereal bowl and is addictive. Another favourite is the compost cookie, which packs pretzels, crisps, oats, butterscotch, and chocolate chips into an unlikely cookie powerhouse.    It’s hard to go wrong dining in New York. The city has something for everyone and a foodie tour highlights just how much America and its cuisine really is a melting pot.

Good to know

Delaware & Hudson                         delawareandhudson.com

Charlie Palmer @ The Knick            theknickerbocker.com

Marta                                                www.martamanhattan.com

Katz’s Delicatessen                           katzsdelicatessen.com

Carnegie Deli                                    carnegiedeli.com

Milk Bar                                  milkbarstore.com

Ess-a-Bagel                             www.ess-a-bagel.com

Brooklyn’s Bagel

Joe’s Pizza                               www.joespizzanyc.com

Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano         www.totonnosconeyisland.com

Di Fara Pizza.                                   www.difara.com

Image of Camilla Kaas-Stock
By Dena Roché

Journalist

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