Costa Rica - Golf and food

Posted: Wed 14th January 2015
By: Dena Roché

If you are planning a once in a lifetime golf holiday, then Villa Manzu in Costa Rica, should be high on your bucket list. The only problem is that you may never want to leave...

Perched on five acres of private peninsula in the Guanacaste region of Costa Rica, Villa Manzu is a year-old, jaw-dropping, 30,000 square foot private estate that you will quickly come to think of as home during your stay. I admit that I did not want to move out after my five-day trip in October.    The word ‘manzu’ comes from the native Chorotegan language and translates as ‘friends’, and you will quickly come to think of your household staff (from Jenifer and Chris, the general managers, to Luis and David, the butlers) as such.     I have covered luxury travel for seven years and Villa Manzu now sits atop my list as the most special place I have stayed. The architecture, which weaves in touches of Chorotegan and Southeast Asian styles, plays a part but it’s the marriage of the exterior designs with the interior touches that make the mansion so amazing. When I explore the house on my first day I experience sensory overload, unsure what to look at next. Every piece of décor, from the doors, to the light fixtures, to the textiles and knick-knacks are brimming with details, ensuring that each time you look you see something you missed before.

THE GARDEN SUITE. The property has eight suites, including two, not surprisingly, over-the-top master suites. I am staying in the Naciente, a garden suite where the standout feature is doors that open directly onto the steps of the plunge pool and hot tub.     Inside there are two king-size beds and a modern, stand-alone tub that beckons me on my first night. I also love that the rain shower is the perfect temperature as soon as it’s turned on. The suite is a mix of greens, whites and wood, with both Moroccan and Balinese inspired pieces.     Every stay at Villa Manzu is bespoke – whatever your heart desires can be arranged. For golfers, this means trips to the three courses nearby. The top course in the area is just a short drive to the nearby Four Seasons Resort. It is an Andrew Palmer, par 72 course that offers an experience that’s hard to find anywhere else in the world; ocean views, massive elevation changes and a dry forest setting. Covering over seven miles, walking the course is not even allowed. Fourteen holes have such amazing ocean views that the pro Randoll Viquez tells me that while the course is technically on the easier end, the challenge is not to get distracted by the scenery.     The signature holes include numbers three, six, seven and 17. Number six is considered to be one of the five best holes Palmer ever designed, and there is a 300-foot elevation change from the tee to the hole. This one hole took over a year to build. The Audubon-certified course was just named ‘Best in Central America’, by World Golf Awards and is ranked among the Golf Digest’s Top 100 Courses, outside the US. It is also one of the most expensive places to play golf in Central America.

BE AWARE OF SNAKES. If you haven’t had your fill of golf, the par 71 championship course at Reserva Conchal, designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr, is an hour away at the Westin Resort. The first Audubon-certified course in Costa Rica has less ocean views than the Four Seasons, but the greens are well protected and challenging and will play well for all skill levels.     Like the Four Seasons course, you’ll often find animals like pizotes (a member of the raccoon family) on the greens and be careful when playing because snakes like to hide in the tall grass.    Another top course, an hour from Villa Manzu, is Hacienda Pinilla – a par 72, Mike Young designed course that is part of the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary. The course has two sides; the ocean nine, with three holes with spectacular views, and other holes that teem with wildlife and otherworldly Matapalo trees. The ranch side is where you’ll likely hear howler monkeys. During January through March expect big winds to be a factor in your game. Because the Guanacaste region is a desert, during the dry season courses will be drier and the forest less lush.

ACTIVITIES GALORE. Costa Rica is known as an outdoor adventurer’s paradise and when you stay at Villa Manzu you have access to paddle boards, surfing, snorkeling and kayaks. You can take them out on your own or have the naturalist on staff give a lesson on any activity. The staff can also arrange ocean adventures, trips to the volcano, horse riding, excursions to the coffee plantations and pretty much anything else you can dream up.     There are several beaches around the property and guests have access to the Playa Prieta Private Beach Club. One of my most memorable experiences was having Felipe lead a few of us on a hike to a secret beach, a stretch of oceanfront that reminded me of Hawaii with black volcanic rocks jutting up from the water. Our group said thunder be damned and headed out despite the impending weather…  While the hike is short, a part of it is down a steep rocky trail. No surprise that it started pouring on the walk there and the rain continued while we frolicked on the sand picking up shells for souvenirs. When we turned to go back we realised our trail had literally turned into a waterfall. Thankfully, laundry is included in your stay and everything, including our tennis shoes, was fresh by the next morning.

RELAXING. I must admit that Villa Manzu was so relaxing that it was lovely to just slow the pace down. I enjoyed lounging in the infinity pool, drinking in the view (and a glass of wine!), taking part in some of the activities provided and simply reading a good book whilst surrounded by luxury.     Luis, an oenophile after my own heart, lead my small group in a wine tasting of some of the 128 bottles from the villa’s cellar, and also gave us a lesson about Costa Rican coffee, showing us how it is traditionally brewed.     Sous chef Jack Pol offered a hands-on cooking class one afternoon and I tried to convince house manager Jenifer that the shrimp, lobster and rice I made should qualify me for the open executive chef position. Alas, I didn’t even get an interview.

THE CULINARY TEAM. Speaking of food, before your stay at Villa Manzu you will consult with the staff about any food allergies, likes and dislikes your group has and the culinary team will craft a menu. They’ve even gone so far as to have a rabbi certify the kitchen kosher for one group.      My group is simpler, but we do test them with dairy and gluten issues and several pescatarians in the mix. The villa employs an executive chef, sous chef and a breakfast and pastry chef. Sondra, the pastry wizard, whipped up some of the best brownies I’ve ever had and they were dairy and gluten-free.     Lunches of soba noodle salad with jumbo shrimp or fish or pork tacos were delicious. While at dinnertime we feasted on appetizers like orange and cinnamon caramelized lobster tiradito, with a roasted bell pepper coulis, to mains of grilled baby snapper with port and thyme risotto, mint and a baby zucchini sauce. Desserts like chocolate cream coconut foam and dried pineapple tulle and wild berries tested my willpower.    With no job to keep me onsite, it was with a heavy heart that I said pura vida to Villa Manzu. Pura Vida is a distinctly Costa Rican phrase that can be used as a greeting or a goodbye – it says ‘this is living’. And boy, is Villa Manzu living!

Good to know

American Airlines, Delta and United all fly from London to Liberia Airport in Costa Rica. The airport is 30 minutes from Villa Manzu. Villa Manzu offers transportation to and from the airport. Please be advised there is a $29 departure tax when leaving Costa Rica.
 

Villa Manzu is all-inclusive at $15,000 per night for up to 14 people. As of June, 2015, the rate will be $16,500 per night. Minimum three-night stay.   www.villamanzu.com

For more information on Costa Rica visit the national visitor’s site at www.visitcostarica.com

 

Image of Camilla Kaas-Stock
By Dena Roché

Journalist

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