Living the dream at Ballyfin in Ireland

Phil Mickelson said “The object of golf is not just to win, it is to play like a gentleman and win.” For anyone who is looking to combine golf with refinement and old world elegance, a trip to Ireland’s County Laois provides the genteel atmosphere to play like a gentleman on stadium courses fit for a pro.

I set the tone for my regal golf getaway basing myself at the ultra-exclusive Ballyfin, a Relais & Chateaux 15-room property that has quietly garnered luxury accolades since opening in 2011. The 1820s Georgian Manor House was painstakingly restored for eight years with seemingly no expense spared. I may be in Ireland, but I feel like I’m living in Versailles during my three night stay.   While there is no golf course ensconced in the over 600-acre Ballyfin Demesne I enjoy biking alongside the lake. I debate for a moment taking the penny-farthing bicycle out for a spin, but opt for the balance of the 21^st century bike instead.     The blue bells are in bloom and the grounds are awash with hues of blue and green, offering a nice contrast to the soft weather Ireland is known for. Guests can also take a pony and trap ride around the grounds, avail themselves of many walking paths or try their hand at clay pigeon shooting or archery.

THE HERITAGE CLUB. But if you’re itching to golf, head to The Heritage Golf & Spa Resort in Killenard, about a 25 minute drive from Ballyfin. The Par 72 championship course was designed by Seve Ballesteros and Jeff Howes and takes advantage of the gorgeous Slieve Bloom Mountains as a backdrop.     The course is adorned with five lakes and a stream, but despite all the water features and Ireland’s wet weather, the course stays dry all year because of the underground construction incorporated when it was built in the early 2000s. 98 bunkers and over 7,000 trees pepper an undulating course that can be played from 5747 to 7319 yards.       While there are plenty of long yard holes, number four, a par-3, deceptively short 214 yards is the signature hole. With a large bunker on the left and a lake to the right and behind, there is ample opportunity for disaster in all directions for a novice golfer like myself. Eddie Doyle, the golf pro gives me a heads up that the wind tends to push the shot to the lake on the right and sure enough that is exactly where my ball ends up. Great! Ah well, I’m playing the game like a gentleman, errr, lady.

THE SEVE TROPHY. The Heritage played host to the Seve Trophy in 2007 and 2009 and I’m sure they did far better navigating it than I am. The hardest hole is the beastly 491 yard, par-4 12th. To make or beat par you must position the tee shot down the left or encounter the bunkers on the right. The goal of the second shot is to avoid the lake. Let’s just say I didn’t make par on this one.    And finally, we’re at the 18th. This 447-yard, par-4, demanding hole is a fitting end to a true stadium course. Lakes and bunkers intimidate on both sides and my mind is already at the 19^th hole sipping a Guinness. Clearly it is time for more lessons when I return home!

MASSAGE AND COCKTAILS. After a hard day on the links I return to Ballyfin and promptly book the Serenity Massage. The brochure describes it as “a tranquil escape from every day trials and tribulations” which seems like the perfect antidote to my golf game.     The massage does as promised and I’m revived and ready to join the other guests of the manor for complimentary cocktails before dinner. The only question is whether to enjoy the Anthony Barton Saint-Emilion in the Saloon, which has a wood floor the likes of which can only be found elsewhere at Windsor Castle and Buckingham Palace, or in The Gold Drawing Room, the grandest French inspired reception room in the house.     Dinner is in The State Dining Room with a view of the large Return fountain. As you might imagine, the food is as grand as the setting. Chef Ryan Murphy already has three Michelin Stars on his resume and dishes like Carlingford Lough Lobster Ravioli and West Cork Skeaghanore Duck could easily earn him a coveted fourth.

BACK TO SCHOOL. Realising that my golf game needs work, I explore the options at the Michael Dixon School of Golf at the illustrious K Club in County Kildare, an hour ride from Ballyfin. The five-star K Club has hosted 13 European Opens and the 2006 Ryder Cup. Its Golf Academy offers individual lessons and day golf schools, but if you’re a more established golfer than moi, you’ll want to avail yourself of 36 holes of some of the best golf in Ireland.    The Arnold Palmer designed Palmer Ryder Cup Course is a perennial in the top parkland courses in Ireland and is one of the most spectacular courses in Europe. Palmer’s favourite hole is the par-5 fourth with the trick being to avoid the overhanging trees to the right. The most intimidating (certainly for me!) hole is the par-4 seventh. Water and the tendency towards swirling winds make it a challenging hole for even the most seasoned golfers.    The Smurfit Course was created to provide a contrast to the Palmer Ryder Cup Course and it is described best as inland links. The two courses have entirely different landscapes with the Palmer Ryder course featuring well-designed planted areas with cultivated plants in a stylized fashion, and the Smurfit course displaying wild species of plants in a random display that would occur naturally.     The Smurfit course also boasts four islands in the lakes to encourage waterfowl habitat. The 12^th hole is a just a par-3 but it challenges with one of the largest individual greens in the world and a bad tee shot can set you back upwards of 60 yards. 

MOUNT JULIET. To round out my golf trifecta in Ireland I head to County Kilkenny and the five-star Mount Juliet. Its Jack Nicklaus course is considered the best parkland course in Ireland. The Par 72, 7,300 yard course seduces with rolling fairways, countered greens and plenty of water hazards to challenge top golfers. The American Express Golf Championships were held here in 2002 and 2004.    Number three, a par-3 is one of three signature holes on the links. It is played from an elevated tee with a stream and lake by the green. The par-5 10th throws a thicket of trees to test even the best strategists. The final hole is a long par-4 with a water feature all down the left-side. 

MEDIEVAL CITY. Make sure to explore Kilkenny before heading back to Ballyfin. The town is one of Ireland’s finest medieval cities. Kilkenny Castle and the 13^th Century St. Canice’s Cathedral provide a glimpse into Ireland throughout the centuries.       Inspired by history, I decide to raid Ballyfin’s costume department which features Victorian frocks and gentleman’s coats from an era with lavish balls and dinners and where people dressed to the nines were the norm. After donning my long gown, boa, jewellery and feathered hat, I am ready to step out in style for the night. I may not have won in golf like Phil Mickelson, but I can at least look like a lady off the links.